Wednesday 31 August 2011

Beautiful Barcelona

I have to start writing my blog again: facebook just isn't enough for all the thoughts, images and experience that travelling inspires.I really enjoyed my brief stay in Kuala Lumpur on the way over, the sights sounds and smells of Asia always feel like home – but four days ago, when I left there, feels like an eternity away so I am going to journal my travels as they happen before it all disappears into the next chapter.

SO here I am now in beautiful Barcelona, a place so full of history and ARCHITECTURE! There must be some massive quarries here, because the city is huge. Yes, this must be a very rocky place: all the thousands of buildings are built from local stone - huge cathedrals, medieval palaces, government buildings, unbelievable ancient roman walls - all made from stone. Incredibly beautiful city, Gaudi is but a part of it... the more I see, the more I understand the influences on his work.. There are high rise apartments everywhere: right up to the beach, fronting the cathedrals, along medieval lanes ...not a bungalow to be seen. It's fantastic the way that history merges with the present everywhere – cafes and squares full of people (mostly tourists!) where Roman chariots once rolled by, people drinking coffee where Franco's bombs once killed children. These buildings are so old, wherever the rendering is worn you can see patched and repatched stonework that has survived for centuries. One corner of a building was worn and scraped, most likely by chariots repeatedly driven at speed. It all combines to give a sense of enduring culture that is very powerful. 

I have had the amazing good fortune to be staying with my beautiful generous couchsurfing host, Elena, who loves her city and loves sharing it. Ever since I made contact with her I have felt at home here. She is so welcoming and friendly and so keen to show me her beautiful city. It might be better if the neighbours weren't so noisy at night (it's an apartment building with a big ventilation well in the centre that everyone's bedroom windows open onto, so it's a bit like sleeping with 50 people!), but I am coping well and really enjoying it despite feeling a little jetlagged...

It is also extremely HOT! I have been catching the metro everywhere and the winds that blow down the metro stairs from above are really welcome. Shops are airconditioned but houses not - all these highrise flats everywhere, with little tiny balconies. This district is called Gracia, was once a village but now part of Barcelona city. Gaudi's PArc Nuell is just up the hill, a short walk to fantasy. I love it - imaginative architecture that uses rockwork to create beautiful organic spaces.
And the famed gingerbread house buildings with rounded corners and fantastic shapes and mosaics are just lovely. I can't really afford to go inside but am enjoying the outsides - I keep thinking of Gaudi as an exterior (rather than interior) decorator – although I know they will be equally beautiful and exotic within. 

Elena has taken me to see the old walled original town, with parts of the original Roman wall intact and even more parts that have been incorporated into medieval buildings - narrow cobbled
winding streets full of magic, fascinating little shops and tourists! And buskers, there is entertainment everywhere. Opera in the .street and even a drunk interrupting to make it feel like home...

Yesterday I went to the market and just now finished off the glorious fresh figs and strawberries I bought there - the stalls are fantastic, they take so much trouble to make their displays absolute works of art - you can't just pick the fruit you want because it would interrupt their creations! There was every delectable imaginable and I brought home salmon to cook for our dinner, which Elena appreciated. She is so lovely and so keen to practise her English because she is going to England for a months holiday soon. It is amazing to feel so welcomed by a stranger - we get on really well and I feel absolutely at home here. It is a climb up 5 flights of stairs to her flat, great exercise too! Her block of flats is on the corner of Carrer Providencia and Carrer Alegre de Dalt - providence and happiness in the village of Grace, very apt!

Many of the museums in Barca are free Sundays after 3 pm - Elena says most of the good Picassos are all over the world, but I went to the Picasso museum anyway and didn't regret it, nor even the 45 minute queue in the muggy heat. The museum covers his whole life and works, fascinating to see how his skills developed and changed from a very young age.
It was a museum sort of day – I peeked at the pre-Columbian South American museum, so validating of their culture – modern art has so much in common with Indigenous art in capturing essence. And then Elena and I went back in time to the Museum of History – unbelievable! The basement of the building has been excavated and we walked among the layers of history there – from Roman through to Gothic and Medieval – such a brilliant way to experience history. My inner archaeologist was in bliss! And my feet were verging on being in blisters, we walked so far on my last day, all over the beautiful old city.
Now I am in Granada and the next chapter begins! Nearly missed my plane, arrived after check-in, but an angel heard me and the plane was delayed three hours – magical country, this.I don't know if it's from all the praying done here, but there are certainly angels.

Sunday 5 June 2011

The Late Late News

It’s been a long, long time since I wrote here on this blog…eighteen months or more, even this post that I started in Bali three months ago is very late getting put up here. Fortunately Blogger, com waits patiently...

So many things have happened… a trip to Fiji for two months which deserves a whole book, but which will instead get barely a few words because it was so long ago now and so many other events have crowded it from my mind. Or maybe not – when I let my mind drift back there, the colours and sounds and above all, the people, are so vivid and real that I hardly need the photos that are hopefully safely ensconced on my external hard drive to bring them to you.

Everyone should go to Fiji – it has all the seductive elements of the south sea paradise we all long for! The sparkling seas that link over 300 islands, the smiling people and their lilting harmonies, the tropical fruits in abundance…But don’t go just after a cyclone like I did! Flattened coconut palms, absence of fresh fruit and veg, people suffering (but quietly, patiently, gently) the effects of having their gardens and livelihoods destroyed. It was major – I was so glad to be able to take some money collected from my generous friends and to be able to put it in the hands of people who really needed it. We met such amazingly lovely people! Brendan/Mook spent hours recording and editing the music of the little male bands who sing in exquisite harmonies, as well as one little nine-year-old angel who sang gospel and a church choir that brought tears to my eyes. All of these recordings we took to Suva where we spent 3 weeks trying to find a way to get them reliably and cheaply produced for sale. Despite some promising leads, nothing eventuated and we returned home to set up a “Fiji Aid” website to sell a compilation to raise funds for cyclone vicitims. That didn’t elicit much interest either, so now I am funding the church choir CD myself in an attempt to make something eventuate from the trip and to help the people of Kioa make some money for themselves.

Kioa! What a place, what a people! Kioa is a small island in Fiji bought by Polynesian people from Tuvalu after WW2, using US money they had earned during the war. Thinking ahead to the time when their small coral atolls could become overcrowded, a small contingent set off to populate a distant hilly islet in the midst of the Fijian cannibal culture. Unsurprisingly, they maintained their distance from the cannibals and kept their own culture strong and vibrant. We travelled by open boat to an idyllic scene, with handhewn canoes on the beach and stunningly beautiful Polynesian men and women dancing enthusiastically in their community hall, dressed and decorated in traditional style and thoroughly enjoying themselves. Magic! And such a gift to be there!

Though equally religious, despite the overwhelming presence of the Methodist church (bells to wake up at 5 and then again for evening prayers, church three times a week!) Kioa is far more egalitarian than the rest of Fiji. Men and women both serve on the local council and share decision-making – although the men, as ever, were the only musicians to play their local and traditional songs for us. We were there for Easter and were treated to an unreserved display of rant from the pulpit, interspersed with the most beautiful choir music I have ever heard. After the service, the choir assembled to do it all again for a recording.

I went back to Kioa by myself for a week and stayed with a new friend, Luisa and her family. Luisa took me to Savusavu to meet her mum Anna, a great lady who had been out at the height of the cyclone securing her boats - she is also the grand-daughter of a Samoan princess who came to Fiji with her English lover after her father chased him away from Samoa, bearing her first child on a small islet near Taveuni. Later, Brendan and I both went back to Savusavu to stay with Anna for a few days - she offered us space to build a house - what a dream that would be...

Well, that was a bit of the Fiji story! Photos yet to come…